Building Techniques

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Shaun Garrity  |  Mar 12, 2019  |  0 comments
3Dprinting may seem like a fairly recent innovation, however it’s been around for longer than you might perhaps imagine. The first 3D printers appeared commercially in the mid 1990s, but priced in the region of £75,000 they certainly weren’t cheap - you were in Ferrari and Porsche territory. The technology was developed in the 1980s, Chuck Hull being accredited with demonstrating his SLA-1 printer as the first commercial example some 34 years ago on March 9th. His intention was to develop a machine that would be capable of speeding up the time it took to create prototypes as using a one-off machining process was expensive in terms of both time and money;the ability to print an item in just a few hours represented a major breakthrough as you can imagine.
Mike Beddow  |  Jul 29, 2008  |  0 comments
Probably the most tedious part is to simulate the fuel tank corrugations. This is done by sticking down thin strips of card (with photo mount spray) to the fuel tank balsa sheeting. This is then given copious coats of sanding sealer which smoothes out the sharp edges of the card. The result when painted looks quite realistic.
RCME Staff  |  Jan 21, 2016  |  0 comments
Cyril Carr's Semi scale sportster is designed primarily for beginners but is also a platform for those uninitiated in the ways of Depron to experiment with the techniques and adhesives required and we've got the build photo's. So take a look below and allow them to aid your build! Happy building! . . .
Nigel Hawes  |  Nov 03, 2006  |  0 comments
In the days when model flying was restricted to i. c. -powered airframes and gliders, there wasn't much need for modellers to wield a soldering iron, but that's not the case now. With electric flight firmly established as a major discipline within the hobby there's a need to master the art of soldering; whether forming a complex wiring harness to parallel up Li-Po cells or simply soldering Gold connectors to a battery or motor wire, a poor solder joint can cause anything from intermittent motor running to total loss of control.
David Ashby  |  Jan 04, 2008  |  0 comments
Werewolf is the free plan in the current (Jan 2008) issue and designer Peter Miller has been in touch to advise that a rib set for Werewolf is available from Greenair Designs. I can't quote a price (as I havn't been able to get through to them) but you can phone them on 01603 898474 or go to www. greenairdesigns. com .
RCME Staff  |  Jan 18, 2018  |  0 comments
1. Most standard servos come with a set of four rubber grommets, brass ferrules and fixing screws. Also included is a selection of different output arms that can be changed to suit your model’s installation requirements. 2.
Tim Mackey  |  Apr 09, 2009  |  0 comments
The Li-Po battery has transformed electric flight This is the first in a two-part article all about cells and batteries; the various types, how to choose and use them, charge them, discharge them and heck, in these green times - even how to dispose of them! In this first part I am going to kick things off with a description of the modern energy source that is the Lithium chemistry based cell. Borrowing a little from my previous RCM&E articles "Electrickery" (which can be read on the site here, in the archives, link below) I shall endeavour to explain how to get the best from these cells, and their unique properties compared to nickel based cells. Now I am not a chemist, scientist, or even particularly technically savvy about the manufacture of these little marvels, but I have been a user of them for well over 5 years and have over a hundred different types and sizes in my arsenal, these fulfill many different roles not only in powering my electric models and radio equipment, but likewise, assorted auxiliary gear onboard my aeroplanes. The latter includes sound effects, simulated guns, and lighting while I'm "currently" (dreadful pun intended) experimenting with making a power supply unit from the newer lithium based M1 cells from A123 technologies, to feed my hungry chargers when out at the field.
Tim Mackey  |  Apr 15, 2009  |  0 comments
There's life beyond the Li-Po as these cell types continue to prove In part. 1 we looked at the popular and versatile lithium polymer cell and this time we're going to discuss most other types of battery. Firstly, let's examine some of the many other types of cell available to us while explaining the rationale behind selecting particular types for certain roles. First off though, remember that several different manufacturers / pack assemblers use the same basic cell when making up their products, then wrap it all up in a nice shiny label with their own particular brand name.
Graeme Dean  |  Jan 07, 2008  |  0 comments
You wouldn't throw away a perfectly good fuel tank would you? I'm not sure if I am the only one who suffers leaks from around the bung in the front of the popular plastic types of tank available from most hobby shops. Perhaps I’m heavy-handed with the screwdriver when tightening the centre screw to seal the tank, but in most cases the damn thing will leak at some point. At the cost of up to £5-8 or more each for these things (depending on size), it’s a little annoying as I must do my modelling 'on the cheap' because I cannot afford to lash out and spend big money on ARF’s that include all the fittings. So, what to do? As most of my models are scratch built prototypes (usually without plans – plans, who needs them!) they can be engineered to include a fuel tank made from either a empty baked bean tin or a ‘soup for one’ tin depending on what engine size is to be used.
David Ashby  |  Feb 07, 2008  |  0 comments
Designer Cyril carr has kindly taken some photos of his Depron bending technique. We've recently published three plan model designs from Cyril - the two triplanes and this months Walrus. Some of the photos show just how far you can bend Depron but as Cyril says 'pressure must very smoothly applied to avoid creases'. He adds - 'the parcel sticky tape completely avoids splitting the outer surface.
Alex Whittaker  |  Jun 04, 2013  |  0 comments
Here's what we're aiming to achieve. . . .
David Ashby  |  Nov 27, 2013  |  0 comments
The fruits of my labours, not perfect I'll readily confess but far better than I had expected Airbrushes have always been at the periphery of my aeromodelling vision. As a kid I grew up on a staple diet of Airfix kits so should really have had an airbrush a long time ago. I think I've always dismissed the possibilities of ownership on three grounds - cost, technical know-how and artistic ability. I've assumed that airbrushing is an expensive pursuit for which you need tons of cash, a degree in chemistry and must possess artistic flair in spades to do any justice.
Lindsay Todd  |  May 23, 2018  |  0 comments
The plan for Renaissance is one of the FREE pull-out plans with RCM&E's July 2018 issue. Having created a plan, it is reasonable to expect some changes to occur. Although I’ve tried to think ahead, the practical build of the model will inevitably throw up unforeseen issues. I should briefly touch on CNC or laser-cut parts.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jun 28, 2007  |  0 comments
The Great Planes Venus 40 is an ideal first low-wing model In the February to May 2006 issues of RCM&E I told you how to assemble and fly your first ARTF high-wing R/C trainer. Judging by the response I received, that information proved useful. But, several readers also posed another question: How do I tackle my first-ever low-wing ARTF sports/aerobatic model? Wonder no more! Your wish is my command, and this time Im back armed with an attractive low-wing ARTF design that Ill be assembling over three build tutorials. The box of bits will be transformed into an exciting and flamboyant aerobat! Remember that ARTF models employ similar construction methods so whilst I'm using the Great Planes Venus 40 as an example, you should find the techniques I'll describe transferable to most other low-wing ARTF models.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jul 04, 2007  |  0 comments
The Great Planes Venus 40 is the subject of this three-part series Welcome to Pt. 2 of our ongoing low-wing sports/aerobatic ARTF R/C model assembly and flying adventure. Are you ready to get to grips with a beautiful backside and a nifty nose? You are? Good! Lets get going BUTT FIRST Before gluing the horizontal tailplane and vertical fin in place, cut away the Monokote from over the fuselage horizontal stabiliser (stab) openings and the rear-end control rod exit holes with a sharp scalpel. Its recommended that a 3/32 flap of covering be left within the top edges of the fuselage openings to act as joint-seals when the horizontal stab is permanently settled.


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