Gerard Feeney

Gerard Feeney  |  Dec 13, 2010  |  0 comments
This review was first published in RCM&E May 2005. The kit is still available (see Datafile). Making R/C model aircraft airframes from hot-wire cut blue foam, that’s subsequently covered with PVA-adhered brown paper is a construction method that’s been around for years. Mainly Models of Hertfordshire have now embraced this cheap ‘n’ cheerful airframe production philosophy in their expanding range of 1/12 scale W.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jul 12, 2010  |  0 comments
Alex Whittaker’s own-design homage to traditional R/C aeromodelling, the Boddingtonesque ‘Bushwhacker’ has featured extensively in RCM&E in the recent past as an extended free pull-out plan feature. Now this 55”-span, three-channel (no ailerons) . 15-. 30-powered trainer/sports model has been kitted by Colin Buckle to join the long-established Ben Buckle range of traditionally-constructed R/C aircraft kits.
Gerard Feeney  |  May 20, 2009  |  0 comments
Fig. 1 Welcome back. In part. 1 we looked at preparation so let's get covering.
Gerard Feeney  |  May 19, 2009  |  0 comments
Available in a whole range of colours, Solarfilm is easy to apply once you've mastered a few basics. Over the last 30 years, Solarfilm has revolutionised the way in which we cover our models, making it possible to achieve light, durable and spectacularly colourful finishes. Unfortunately, like everything that involves a certain dexterity (and attention to instructions!), its equally possible to create some spectacular disasters! Not everyone, it seems, has discovered the secrets of a perfect Solarfilm skin, and this article is intended to help such troubled souls and iron out their models wrinkles and folds. Well look at actually applying the film later but for the moment, lets talk about preparing the airframe and the tools you'll need.
Gerard Feeney  |  Dec 11, 2008  |  0 comments
I'm pleased with the finish on my Verosonic Litespan covering material has been available for many years now, used as a heat-shrink ‘tissue substitute’ on free flight and the more petite, traditionally-constructed R/C models. Whilst the oldfashioned tissue and dope covering application hassles are absent, Litespan nevertheless presents the first-time user with new set of equally-challenging problems, and it remains a material that can be rather tricky to master – especially if you use it infrequently. A while back, I covered both a Grüner electric-powered R/C ‘Tiger Moth’ and a Veron ‘Verosonic’ F/F glider with Litespan and was quickly reminded of just how demanding the stuff can be to apply if you’re not fully tuned in! Based on that slightly anxiety-producing experience, I thought I’d pen this article to remind everybody of how best to deal with this revolutionary but challenging airframe-covering medium. LITE YOU ARE What exactly is Litespan? It’s doubtful that Solarfilm, the manufacturer, will give away its formulation secrets anytime soon, but in practical terms it’s a super-light, very strong, airtight and waterproof paper-like material that’s resistant to both glow and diesel fuels, and it accepts most paints safely without nasty reactions occurring.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jul 10, 2007  |  0 comments
She's a great first low-winger is the Venus 40 Welcome back once more. We have reached the last instalment of the Great Planes’ ‘Venus 40’ assembly and flying saga. While the previous two parts dealt exclusively with airframe assembly matters; this time we finally get to the exciting bit – flying! But first, the few remaining airframe-completion tasks lie ahead. The most important of these jobs is the fuselage radio installation, so let’s start with that.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jul 04, 2007  |  0 comments
The Great Planes Venus 40 is the subject of this three-part series Welcome to Pt. 2 of our ongoing low-wing sports/aerobatic ARTF R/C model assembly and flying adventure. Are you ready to get to grips with a beautiful backside and a nifty nose? You are? Good! Lets get going BUTT FIRST Before gluing the horizontal tailplane and vertical fin in place, cut away the Monokote from over the fuselage horizontal stabiliser (stab) openings and the rear-end control rod exit holes with a sharp scalpel. Its recommended that a 3/32 flap of covering be left within the top edges of the fuselage openings to act as joint-seals when the horizontal stab is permanently settled.
Gerard Feeney  |  Jun 28, 2007  |  0 comments
The Great Planes Venus 40 is an ideal first low-wing model In the February to May 2006 issues of RCM&E I told you how to assemble and fly your first ARTF high-wing R/C trainer. Judging by the response I received, that information proved useful. But, several readers also posed another question: How do I tackle my first-ever low-wing ARTF sports/aerobatic model? Wonder no more! Your wish is my command, and this time Im back armed with an attractive low-wing ARTF design that Ill be assembling over three build tutorials. The box of bits will be transformed into an exciting and flamboyant aerobat! Remember that ARTF models employ similar construction methods so whilst I'm using the Great Planes Venus 40 as an example, you should find the techniques I'll describe transferable to most other low-wing ARTF models.
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